Rider On The Wheel

 From Vientiane, I knew I needed to get a move on. While not quite in a state of denial about it, I’d let my visa’s expiry date creep up on me a little. With the benefit of hindsight, getting a few days visa extension might have been a good idea but, instead, I committed to getting my head down to steam southwards at pace. I need to cross to Cambodia 🇰🇭 on 1st February at the latest. Eminently doable! Honestly, these weren’t my favourite days of the trip. Grinding out miles on highways, sharing the road with lots of trucks, riding through the midday heat. The south is much flatter than the north so the riding was easier but lacked the stimulation and challenge of riding the north holds.  🛻  Nevertheless, I had some nice camp spots, this one next to the Mekong. I absolutely trust the safety and security in Laos. For example, if I nip to the loo in a restaurant or cafe I never worry about leaving my phone/wallet on the table, I 100% guarantee to myself that they’ll be th...

 I spent three nights in Vientiane, a more laidback and lowkey capital city, I could not imagine. And, to all intents and purposes, a new city for me. I had spent a day here in 2001 but had not a spark of remembrance or recollection of this, everything felt new. This post is just a few pictures from the city. Lao wiring. ⚡️  The night market was a highlight. Colourful, lively and fun.  Dried fish/seafood. 🎣  BBQ. 🍖  It’s not all meat! 🥩  Murals celebrating a US-funded cultural project.  I wonder if the new President will get behind the funding of less developed countries’ cultural preservation? I fear it might not be a priority! 😉  As posted elsewhere, this is, unequivocally, the coolest cafe in Vientiane! ☕️  What a view! Ancient stupa. 🛕  Retro/vintage interior, sound system playing jazz. Nice!  (Anyone remember The Fast Show Jazz Club?!?) 🎷  Patuxai or Laos’ Arc de Triomphe commemorating the struggle for independence f...

Following on from the last post, I spent four very restful days in Luang Prabang before returning to the saddle.  Atmospheric scenes at the temple. In the background, you can just make out the stupa at the peak of Mount Phousi where….  ….hoards of tourists descend, sorry, ascend each evening for sunset views. 🌅 This was a real sign of the times moment for me. I know our memories are not always reliable things, often telling us the story we want to hear rather than reality. However, back in 2001, when I came up here for sunset, I’m sure there was no entrance fee, no jostling for the best viewpoint and, of course, no smartphones to capture the moment! Now the daily sunset is something of a circus 🤡 or riot! Lots of Chinese tourists on this visit, which I’m glad about. Backpacking around China on that 2001 trip, talking with young Chinese staff, they often spoke to me with envy about my opportunity to travel that, for them, seemed an unachievable dream. I really hope that, sinc...